Angola is very hard to describe without experiencing it. Now the traffic in Angola is even harder to describe without experiencing it. But at the same time, the first time you experience Angolan traffic, you are in a state of shock, fear, and excitement all at once.
I've been told that during the war people in the surrounding cities moved to Luanda to escape the fighting. Luanda is, comparatively, a small city; and ironically it is the capitol city. I've been told that Luanda was originally built for 800,000 people. Well, there are currently around 6 million people living here. The inflation of the population has created immense stress on the living arrangements and the traffic in the city. The city is simply not built to support all the people who live here. That is why there are so many "slums" in the area. People who can not afford to live in apartments or houses in town live in the slum neighborhoods that are crammed together with houses made out of block-ite walls and aluminum panels for the roof. There is actually a standing slum in the city that was being built with the intention of being an apartment building. Construction of the building was abandoned during the war leaving a 14 story building without windows, balcony railings, electricity or running water. The outside of the building isn't even intact. From the outside you see the squares of the block-ite exposed instead of covered and "complete". During the war, people moved into this building because they needed somewhere to live. So they are living with out electricity, water, windows, anything, to this day. It is literally a standing slum.
This post was supposed to be about traffic huh?!? Well I'm getting to that!
So, with a city whose actual population is six times greater than it's intended population capacity, you could imagine the effects that has on traffic. It is very surprising to see how many cars are on the road considering it is a poor country. There is public transportation but it comes in two forms: bus or taxi. Neither are desirable. People don't pay attention to safety rules or regulations here. I've seen buses full of people. I don't mean full as in every seat it occupied, I mean full as in people are crammed together in the aisles and people are nearly hanging out the window. Then, the bus stops yet again for more people to get on. The doors can barely close there are so many people standing in the doorway! I would not want to be crammed on that bus with all those people. The bus probably doesn't even have a functioning air conditioner knowing things here. No thank you! An even bigger no thank you are the taxis here. Taxi are not the normal yellow taxi that you would see at home. These taxis are similar to old VW buses that are painted blue and white. Taxis operate in teams, the driver and the "helper" for lack of better terms. When the taxi pulls up to a "stop" AKA anywhere they want, then the "helper" opens the doors and start screaming the general location of where the taxi is heading. I've read that it usually costs 65 kwanzas (less than $1) for the taxi fare. We've been told that taxis are a pretty good source of income for the owner. Everyday the driver pays the owner a flat rate, usually $100, while the driver and the "helper" split whatever is left over and are require to maintain the taxi. Drivers have the mentality to make as much money as possible in a day which in turn causes them to be absolute idiot drivers. They are the WORST of any drivers here. Driving isn't too good to begin with but these guys are insane. They will speed past someone on the left hand side of the road, only to serve back into the right side of the road barely avoiding a head on collision or crashing into someone in the right hand lane. Then, there are the scooters. People who drive scooters here think they are invincible. They think that everyone else should look out for them; when I think, based on common sense, they are the smallest things on the road, they should look out for cars. I understand the efficiency of scooters here because they can weave in and out of traffic, they don't have to stop when traffic guards are directing traffic, heck, they even drive on the wrong side of the road (then again everyone really does in one way or another); but never in my life would I get on a scooter here. Another thing about driving here, people flash their lights to convey so many different messages: go ahead, I'm coming through, watch out, idiot, don't you see me? It's too easy to misinterpret "I'm coming through" for "go ahead" which would result in an accident. However, miraculously, there are very few accidents here. Most of the accidents are fender benders, not that that is any better, but it is better than a car being totaled and people being injured. Once there is a fender bender, the real entertainment starts. People talk with such animation you think they were upset at the world, but they could really be telling you how much they love you. It is almost frightening how passionately they communicate. It appears as if they are yelling at each other and an onlooker could easily assume that a fist fight is going to break out. Then they will shake hands and walk away. All it was was a casual conversation. It doesn't look that way though. Now, add the incredibly animated person to a fender bender... can you imagine the result?!?! It's hilarious!!!
Our apartment sit on the corner of two pretty well traveled cross streets. I'll be hanging out then hear people laying on their horns. My thoughts are either someone is blocked by a double parked car and they can not get out, or someone is not being aggressive enough at the intersection, or there was an accident. If the horn honking continues for a few minutes I know it is probably an accident. So I go to watch out of my window. Sure enough, there are two guys yelling and screaming in the middle if the street (with their hazard lights on, I guess that is some safety)with their arms waving and pointing at their already scratched and dented old car. Meanwhile, they are blocking traffic on an already congested street. But they don't care. Then after a few minutes, they are on their way and traffic is moving again. I love watching out our window because it is so funny. There maybe four cars at the intersection and one is trying to go left while the car he is turning past is trying to go left also, then another car wants to go straight and the fourth car is making a U-turn all at the same time. It is crazy, and a miracle that there are not more accidents. I do not believe there are any "rules" for driving here, and if there are, people surely do not follow them.
Now after I have explained the craziness of driving here, I have to say, Reggie and I both drive here. Whenever we are together Reggie normally drives and I am normally saying, "car, car, CAR!" in the passenger seat driving him crazy. :) He is a very good driver, trust me. One has to be aggressive while driving here. If your passive, like I used to be, you will get nowhere (and people will be honking and yelling at you which isn't fun). I have been driving on my own more, on my own meaning without Reggie but usually with friends. Once you get out and about, driving becomes more comfortable. It is VERY different than anywhere else I've driven- even Madrid. But if you can drive here, you can literally drive anywhere. The biggest difference is that you have to expect everything here. You have to expect that the oncoming car may swerve in your lane to avoid a pot hold. You have to expect that cars are not stopping at the "stop" signs, which they do not stop at by the way. You have to expect that no one has the right of way. And you have to expect that the other driver doesn't expect anything also. You can almost always count on the above things happening so a driver has to be more aware here. Usually, people make a two lane road into 3 lanes by driving out on the median. Then they all of a sudden jump back into the right lane. Everything is unexpected so you can't assume anything. While driving anywhere you can't assume anything but especially here you can't count on common sense or any kind of rules that you learned in drivers training. But once you get the hang of it, it's not that bad :) I just have to remind myself that Angolan driving is not acceptable at home!
So after all this I still haven't really talked about traffic. It is a joke here to say, "I'll be there by 10am, depending on traffic". Depending on traffic can change plans drastically. We normally allow one hour travel time to get to the gym on a game day. However, recently it has only taken 10 minutes to get to the gym. Any given day, that could change so you have to account for the unexpected. Certain days traffic is worse than others. Certain hours, traffic is a stand still. Personally, I think traffic is so bad here because 1) there are so many cars, and 2) people don't know how to drive. While a car may drive on the median to pass the 10 cars ahead of him/her, there will be a car parked in the median with it's hazard lights on causing the first car to have to merge back into the lanes. Well people here don't know how to yield because driving here is such a power struggle. People will not let you in, or merge, because they don't want you to get in front of them. Obviously, they are unaware that the "zipper effect" while driving is very effective! If people were not so stubborn and power obsessive traffic would also be a little better. While I have my ideas as to why the traffic is so bad here, I may be completely wrong. However usually, it's because reason #2, people don't know how to drive. Or option 3, which I unofficially mentioned, people are driving on the median then come across a parked car and need to merge back into the regular lanes (if you can even call them that!).
I really wish I had a video camera to explain the complexities of driving! I think I need to bring one back and start making movies of driving in Luanda. It would be pretty darn entertaining, let me tell you! In the Bible Study that I attend, someone mentioned that arriving at a destination here is a blessing because the drivers are so crazy. Like I said, it's an experience. :)
Sunday, June 13, 2010
English Phrases on T-Shirts
I always laugh at the t-shirts that I see people wearing on the streets but for some reason, I didn't write down any of the phrases. Here are a few that my friends helped me put together. Consider this post a "Work in Progress" because I will come back and update it when I see new t-shirts.
- A grown man with a muscular build wearing a red, tight, long sleeve shirt with High School Musical on the front.
- A t-shirt that reads, "Sex Instructor. First Lesson Free" (My friend Pam offered this one to me. Her driver, who is from Angola and speaks a tiny, tiny bit of English didn't know what the shirt meant-- so we assume the young man wearing it didn't either)
- A custodian at the International School was wearing a hat with the F-bomb in capital letters. He must not be aware of what the hat says because he's around children who speak English and you can't get much more offensive than that. (Thank you, Stacie)
I have also seen lots of young girls with random phrases on their t-shirts. I read it to myself thinking, "She obviously doesn't know what that means"... I just need to write the phrases down so I can share them.
I am also surprised to see the number of shirts that are old jerseys, school t-shirts, business t-shirts and such. I wonder where these shirts are from and I think maybe they are from churches or organizations outside of African who send second hand clothing to people here. It is an interesting sight to see from the other side. Instead of seeing bags taken to a drop off location in the States, I imagine that I see people benefiting from those people who donate at home. This all might be an assumption, but you never know.
One time last year the locals were sending clothes donations to another location, I forget where exactly, and I was so impressed with how much people gave. It is assumed, and rightly so, that Angola is poor. While some people can afford to give away their extra clothes, if they are so fortunate to have surplus, some people wear the same outfits over and over. The drop off location was a church in town and there were literally close to one hundred big black garbage bags overflowing the church steps. I do not know where all the clothes came from, maybe some were from more affluent families but I am pretty sure that some, if not more, were from average Angolan families. It was wonderful to see such love and the gifts that these people were giving to people who are in more need than themselves. According to most people's standards, the people giving are equally in need, however they didn't hesitate to offer what they had. Enlightening isn't it?
- A grown man with a muscular build wearing a red, tight, long sleeve shirt with High School Musical on the front.
- A t-shirt that reads, "Sex Instructor. First Lesson Free" (My friend Pam offered this one to me. Her driver, who is from Angola and speaks a tiny, tiny bit of English didn't know what the shirt meant-- so we assume the young man wearing it didn't either)
- A custodian at the International School was wearing a hat with the F-bomb in capital letters. He must not be aware of what the hat says because he's around children who speak English and you can't get much more offensive than that. (Thank you, Stacie)
I have also seen lots of young girls with random phrases on their t-shirts. I read it to myself thinking, "She obviously doesn't know what that means"... I just need to write the phrases down so I can share them.
I am also surprised to see the number of shirts that are old jerseys, school t-shirts, business t-shirts and such. I wonder where these shirts are from and I think maybe they are from churches or organizations outside of African who send second hand clothing to people here. It is an interesting sight to see from the other side. Instead of seeing bags taken to a drop off location in the States, I imagine that I see people benefiting from those people who donate at home. This all might be an assumption, but you never know.
One time last year the locals were sending clothes donations to another location, I forget where exactly, and I was so impressed with how much people gave. It is assumed, and rightly so, that Angola is poor. While some people can afford to give away their extra clothes, if they are so fortunate to have surplus, some people wear the same outfits over and over. The drop off location was a church in town and there were literally close to one hundred big black garbage bags overflowing the church steps. I do not know where all the clothes came from, maybe some were from more affluent families but I am pretty sure that some, if not more, were from average Angolan families. It was wonderful to see such love and the gifts that these people were giving to people who are in more need than themselves. According to most people's standards, the people giving are equally in need, however they didn't hesitate to offer what they had. Enlightening isn't it?
Thursday, June 10, 2010
My new friends
When I was home in January for school, my mom mentioned the American Idol Gives Back Tour where Carrie Underwood came to Luanda, Angola. In the process of trying to find the episode online I came across the blog of a lady who is from Texas and is currently living in Luanda. Out of excitement for another American living here, I emailed her and told her my story. We continued to email back and forth and decided to meet for coffee one day. That is where a wonderful friendship started. We met at the local shopping center and sat for hours talking. My friend, Stacie, is here with her husband and three children. Stacie's husband works for Exxon Mobil and they have been here for 3 years on assignment. It has been such a joy to meet her because she is a wonderful lady with so much knowledge about living in Luanda. I also have to thank her for putting me in touch with the American Women's Association of Angola (AWAA) which has in turn connected me to so many other activities and wonderful women. The day after Stacie and I met for coffee, the AWAA had their last monthly meeting for the year. Many families head home for the summer months, so many activities cease during that time. Since I wasn't as adventurous driving back then, and the location of the meeting, Stacie was kind enough to send out an email to the AWAA members to see if anyone could offer me a ride. That is how I met Pam.
Pam emailed me offering to give me a ride from the city out to Luanda Sul. When Pam picked me up the morning of the meeting, we hit it off immediately. We talked the entire the drive. Pam is here with her husband who works with an American Engineering company. She and her husband have only been here for a few months so she is relatively new. While I've been here longer, I hadn't been "out" much besides basketball games; so I was pretty much new too. Pam has a driver that drives her where ever she needs to go. Whatever she does she invites me and offers to give me a ride. It is such a comfort to not have to drive in the city; although I have been driving more frequently now. We joke that she and her husband are my adopted parents and I'm their adopted daughter because they never had a daughter. They have truly been a blessing and such enjoyment.
The Friday following the AWAA meeting, a yoga class started in the city. That is where I met Katie. Katie is a certified yoga teacher whose boyfriend is from Angola which has brought her to Luanda. She has only been here for about a month but has adapted really well. We are only a few years apart in age and share many interests; such as yoga. Ironically, Katie is from California. I am always amazed when I met someone half way around the world who is from America, let alone California. Katie has been such an inspiring light in the last month. She is very optimistic and joyful; which is a great attribute to have here. I believe it is easy to get depressed or negative while living here if you focus on the negative things. Katie offers a unique experience and opinion that has really impacted my experience. Katie also teaches yoga classes at a local studio which I attend 2 days a week. She has extended many yoga opportunities to me which has been a wonderful experience. We have also been to the beach, grocery shopping, and running together (those stories are coming). The last few weeks have been very fun with Katie and I look forward to continuing our relationship, along with all of my other friends.
These three ladies have been vehicles for me to meet even more people. I am still so surprised at how many expatriates are living here and how I was completely unaware of it! I have met so many wonderful people in the last month, it has transformed my experience here. I could not possibly name every single person here, as I wish I could. Every single person that I have met is an individual with so many delightful characteristics and unique stories and experiences. I'm sure I will delve into all those stories more detailed at a later date.
While it has been so great to meet these fantastic ladies, I am really sad to see them leave; and to be leaving. Most women, and families, are here for a three year assignment. Unfortunately, I have met people who are at the end of their assignment and leaving permanently this month. I'm sure they are anxious to be on their way out; but I am sad to see them leave. I guess that is selfish of me, but they have all contributed to an incredible experience that I wish could continue for eternity. Unfortunately, we have to be realistic and our time here will eventually come to an end. Some before others. But that just means that more people will be coming out. More people to meet, more stories to exchange, more laughs to have, and more friends to be made. Although no one can be replaced. Luckily for me, Stacie, Pam, and Katie are planning on being here when Reggie and I return for the next season so that will be great. However, as I have learned more literally lately, whatever is planned, isn't always what happens.
Pam emailed me offering to give me a ride from the city out to Luanda Sul. When Pam picked me up the morning of the meeting, we hit it off immediately. We talked the entire the drive. Pam is here with her husband who works with an American Engineering company. She and her husband have only been here for a few months so she is relatively new. While I've been here longer, I hadn't been "out" much besides basketball games; so I was pretty much new too. Pam has a driver that drives her where ever she needs to go. Whatever she does she invites me and offers to give me a ride. It is such a comfort to not have to drive in the city; although I have been driving more frequently now. We joke that she and her husband are my adopted parents and I'm their adopted daughter because they never had a daughter. They have truly been a blessing and such enjoyment.
The Friday following the AWAA meeting, a yoga class started in the city. That is where I met Katie. Katie is a certified yoga teacher whose boyfriend is from Angola which has brought her to Luanda. She has only been here for about a month but has adapted really well. We are only a few years apart in age and share many interests; such as yoga. Ironically, Katie is from California. I am always amazed when I met someone half way around the world who is from America, let alone California. Katie has been such an inspiring light in the last month. She is very optimistic and joyful; which is a great attribute to have here. I believe it is easy to get depressed or negative while living here if you focus on the negative things. Katie offers a unique experience and opinion that has really impacted my experience. Katie also teaches yoga classes at a local studio which I attend 2 days a week. She has extended many yoga opportunities to me which has been a wonderful experience. We have also been to the beach, grocery shopping, and running together (those stories are coming). The last few weeks have been very fun with Katie and I look forward to continuing our relationship, along with all of my other friends.
These three ladies have been vehicles for me to meet even more people. I am still so surprised at how many expatriates are living here and how I was completely unaware of it! I have met so many wonderful people in the last month, it has transformed my experience here. I could not possibly name every single person here, as I wish I could. Every single person that I have met is an individual with so many delightful characteristics and unique stories and experiences. I'm sure I will delve into all those stories more detailed at a later date.
While it has been so great to meet these fantastic ladies, I am really sad to see them leave; and to be leaving. Most women, and families, are here for a three year assignment. Unfortunately, I have met people who are at the end of their assignment and leaving permanently this month. I'm sure they are anxious to be on their way out; but I am sad to see them leave. I guess that is selfish of me, but they have all contributed to an incredible experience that I wish could continue for eternity. Unfortunately, we have to be realistic and our time here will eventually come to an end. Some before others. But that just means that more people will be coming out. More people to meet, more stories to exchange, more laughs to have, and more friends to be made. Although no one can be replaced. Luckily for me, Stacie, Pam, and Katie are planning on being here when Reggie and I return for the next season so that will be great. However, as I have learned more literally lately, whatever is planned, isn't always what happens.
Wednesday, June 9, 2010
Playing Catch Up!
Yeah, yeah, yeah, I know! It's been a while! :) But fear not: I have plenty of stories for you my friends.
So here is a list of "stories" that I am going to share with you since my last post on May 21st, 2010:
- All the wonderful friends that I have made here in the last month and a half
- English phrases on t-shirts here
- Angolan traffic
- Supermarkets and local stores
- Yoga
- Benfica Market and the Luanda International School Fair
- Fabric shopping
- Mama Muxima Orphanage
- Encountering a cockroach in our apartment while cleaning
- My "run" with my friend Katie and the "running group"
- Women's Bible Study
- Reggie's photo shoot for Caras magazine
- My driving experiences: the good and the bad
- My attempts at trying to speak Portuguese more
- Libolo (updates, fun stories, friends at games)
- The monthly Cooking Club
- The weather change
- neighbors engagement party
- Going to the movies at Belas Shopping
- My outlook on the overall Angolan experience
So, as you can see, I have been very busy lately! I have not been writing because I am actually exhausted by the time I get home that I barely make it to take of my makeup! I am not forgetting about you all, I've just been busy! I used to get asked the question, "So, what do you do here?". I shamefully would answer, "Oh I pretty much sleep. And do homework about 1-2 days a week. And go to basketball games. But that's it". Now that has all changed.
My goal is to get through a big chunk of these stories tonight, after yoga! Don't worry, I haven't forgotten about you!
Take care, and stores and pictures soon!
Beijos!
So here is a list of "stories" that I am going to share with you since my last post on May 21st, 2010:
- All the wonderful friends that I have made here in the last month and a half
- English phrases on t-shirts here
- Angolan traffic
- Supermarkets and local stores
- Yoga
- Benfica Market and the Luanda International School Fair
- Fabric shopping
- Mama Muxima Orphanage
- Encountering a cockroach in our apartment while cleaning
- My "run" with my friend Katie and the "running group"
- Women's Bible Study
- Reggie's photo shoot for Caras magazine
- My driving experiences: the good and the bad
- My attempts at trying to speak Portuguese more
- Libolo (updates, fun stories, friends at games)
- The monthly Cooking Club
- The weather change
- neighbors engagement party
- Going to the movies at Belas Shopping
- My outlook on the overall Angolan experience
So, as you can see, I have been very busy lately! I have not been writing because I am actually exhausted by the time I get home that I barely make it to take of my makeup! I am not forgetting about you all, I've just been busy! I used to get asked the question, "So, what do you do here?". I shamefully would answer, "Oh I pretty much sleep. And do homework about 1-2 days a week. And go to basketball games. But that's it". Now that has all changed.
My goal is to get through a big chunk of these stories tonight, after yoga! Don't worry, I haven't forgotten about you!
Take care, and stores and pictures soon!
Beijos!
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